This is the first of a series of reviews of independent wine merchants, with an emphasis on those based in Edinburgh. Firstly, I must come clean; I have what could be deemed a vested interest in L'Art du Vin: my niece, Mary Rose Sidgwick, has been working there on and off since last year. She has also helped with the website and started a blog on her travels (she was a cellarhand for the 2010 vintage at Lowe Winery in Mudgee). However, she - and, of course, you my esteemed readers - would want me to be objective, so I shall be.
L'Art du Vin is appropriately based in Leith, where, in times gone by, wine for Edinburgh's elite would arrive by sea, usually in bulk. (The excellent Vintners Rooms restaurant is in a former Leith wine merchant's wine vaults and auction room). L'Art du Vin offers - unsurprisingly - a good range of French wines, some from unusual appellations such as the Cote Roannaise (in the Upper Loire) and the Cotes du Frontonnais (in the South-West) and a very good selection of organic and bio-dynamic wines, such as those from Domaines Schlumberger and Josmeyer in Alsace, although the section dedicated to these could do with more cross-referencing, as origins/appellations are often omitted in the wine descriptions. The company obviously cares about provenance and even has an 'Environmental Policy' - not something one sees very often, even in these eco-conscious times.
Of the three offerings from Roussillon, two are Vins Doux Naturels (from Chateau de Jau and Mas Amiel) - it would be good to see more non-fortified offerings. Those from Spain are good, however, but there is only one such wine from Portugal, Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas, 2006 (£11) - a good choice, nonetheless. In the New World listings, I was pleased to spot the wines of Vina Leyda (from Chile), Mud House and - coming soon - Clos Henri (from New Zealand), Ken Forrester (from South Africa) and Newton (from Napa).
As a general comment, it would be good to see more recent vintages on some of the whites and roses but, otherwise, the list is eclectic and interesting. On the whole, the website is clear and fairly easy to navigate and it is broken up with plenty of photos and good links. However, despite the presence of my lovely niece, the home page could do with fewer words to make it more instantly eye-catching.
L'Art du Vin, 25 Arthur Street, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 5DA, tel: 0131 555 6009, email: sales@aduv.co.uk, website: www.aduv.co.uk
