GALVIN LA CHAPELLE TEAM WINS UK FINAL OF ROUSSILLON DESSERT TROPHY

Head sommelier, Andrea Briccarello and pastry chef, Daniel Fancett of Galvin La Chapelle have won the UK Final of the Roussillon Dessert Trophy. They created a lemon bavarois and citrus fruit salad which they paired with Muscat de Rivesaltes, Domaine Pouderoux 2009. The Final was held at L'Atelier des Chefs in London. The pair will now go head-to-head with the other European Finalists at the European Final which will be held in Perpignan in January.

WINES OF RIOJA DINNER IN EDINBURGH

Rioja is known the world over for its wines, but do you know the difference between a Gran Reserva and a Crianza? This wine tasting evening with Stella wine correspondent Susy Atkins was a great opportunity to learn more about this exciting wine region.

Susy teamed up with Wines from Rioja to present a wine tasting evening at one of Edinburgh's top restaurants, Atrium, in October. The evening included a three-course menu designed to match the wines being shown (six carefully selected white, red and rosé Riojas) with comments and guidance from wine expert Susy on each of the wines.

FINALISTS FOR ROUSSILLON DESSERT TROPHY

The best sommelier and pastry chef partnerships have now been chosen for the UK Final of the Roussillon Dessert Trophy. (See earlier post for more information on the competition). They are from 1 Lombard Street, London EC3, Galvin La Chapelle, London E1, Green's Restaurant and Oyster Bar, London SW1 and Summer Lodge Hotel, Dorset. Each team had to come up with a citrus dessert to partner a Vin Doux Naturel from Roussillon. The teams will now have to create their pairings at L'Atelier des Chefs, Wigmore Street, London W1 on Monday 25th October. The winner will then go to Perpignan for the Grand Final.

BEAUJOLAIS UPS ITS GAME

In the second half of the 1970s, when I joined the wine trade and was studying for my WSET wine exams, Beaujolais was one of the first wines I was able to pin-point fairly confidently when I tasted it blind. It was some years later that Beaujolais Nouveau began to dominate Beaujolais sales, much to the delight of the producers, who saw the return on their vintage costs before they could blink. As the years went by, I became more and more disillusioned by the quality of Beaujolais. The wines just did not reflect the appealing, juicy, raspberry fruit of the Gamay grape and, that aside, did not even represent good value for money. The reason: overcropping.

Despite some good, recent vintages, I have not really changed my opinion, so it is with relief that I hear that the yields for the 2010 vintage are being drastically reduced to between 32 and 25 hectolitres per hectare. This is a progress indeed, considering that the average authorised yield in the region has approached 52hl/ha. The reasons behind the decision lie in the fact that the French have at last realised that the bottom has dropped out of the Beaujolais Nouveau market (last year the en primeur production was 360,000hl, but only 275,000hl shifted).

Thank goodness some action is at last being taken, which will hopefully mean that Beaujolais will once more taste as if it is actually made from the Gamay grape.

L'Art du Vin, Edinburgh

This is the first of a series of reviews of independent wine merchants, with an emphasis on those based in Edinburgh. Firstly, I must come clean; I have what could be deemed a vested interest in L'Art du Vin: my niece, Mary Rose Sidgwick, has been working there on and off since last year. She has also helped with the website and started a blog on her travels (she was a cellarhand for the 2010 vintage at Lowe Winery in Mudgee). However, she - and, of course, you my esteemed readers - would want me to be objective, so I shall be.

L'Art du Vin is appropriately based in Leith, where, in times gone by, wine for Edinburgh's elite would arrive by sea, usually in bulk. (The excellent Vintners Rooms restaurant is in a former Leith wine merchant's wine vaults and auction room). L'Art du Vin offers - unsurprisingly - a good range of French wines, some from unusual appellations such as the Cote Roannaise (in the Upper Loire) and the Cotes du Frontonnais (in the South-West) and a very good selection of organic and bio-dynamic wines, such as those from Domaines Schlumberger and Josmeyer in Alsace, although the section dedicated to these could do with more cross-referencing, as origins/appellations are often omitted in the wine descriptions. The company obviously cares about provenance and even has an 'Environmental Policy' - not something one sees very often, even in these eco-conscious times.

Of the three offerings from Roussillon, two are Vins Doux Naturels (from Chateau de Jau and Mas Amiel) - it would be good to see more non-fortified offerings. Those from Spain are good, however, but there is only one such wine from Portugal, Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas, 2006 (£11) - a good choice, nonetheless. In the New World listings, I was pleased to spot the wines of Vina Leyda (from Chile), Mud House and - coming soon - Clos Henri (from New Zealand), Ken Forrester (from South Africa) and Newton (from Napa).

As a general comment, it would be good to see more recent vintages on some of the whites and roses but, otherwise, the list is eclectic and interesting. On the whole, the website is clear and fairly easy to navigate and it is broken up with plenty of photos and good links. However, despite the presence of my lovely niece, the home page could do with fewer words to make it more instantly eye-catching.

L'Art du Vin, 25 Arthur Street, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 5DA, tel: 0131 555 6009, email: sales@aduv.co.uk, website: www.aduv.co.uk

Hail hits vineyards in Roussillon's Fenouilledes

Last Wednesday, 16th June, violent hailstorms hit the areas of Saint-Paul de Fenouillet, Sournia, Caudiès et Lesquerde in Roussillon's Fenouilledes region, not once but several times, between 1.30 and 4.00pm. The hailstones were as large as eggs and have done extensive damage in the vineyards. In Lesquerde, vignerons are estimating that 80% of this year's grape harvest has been lost. The extent of the hail was such that snow plows had to be used to clear the roads. The locales affected are part of the area that is producing some of the region's most exciting wines and this cruel act of nature will have a enormous repercussions.

Roussillon Dessert Trophy 2010

Calling all budding UK-based pastry chefs and sommeliers - as well as those who know of them. Entries are now being invited for the fourth UK Wines of Roussillon Dessert Trophy. Last year the theme was was chocolate, this year it is citrus fruit and the idea is to come up with the perfect pairing of a Roussillon Vin Doux Naturel (VDN) with a citrus dessert creation. Sommeliers must select a Roussillon VDN - ie from Banyuls, Banyuls Grand Cru, Maury, Muscat de Rivesaltes and Rivesaltes – to match with their pastry chef’s chosen citrus dessert.

Devised by the generic body for Wines of Roussillon (CIVR), this competition is one that I have supported since its inception. I have been a judge in the last two UK competitions and was lucky to be present at the 2009 European Final in Perpignan which was won by the UK team of sommelier Thibaut Panas and chef Anne Coquelin from Le Manoir aux Quat' Saison near Oxford. They chose to pair Rivesaltes, Domaine Gérard Gauby, Caricia 2005 with Manjari Chocolate ‘Sable Breton’ with Black Provençal Fig, which was a wonderful and inventive combination.

If you would like to enter or know of a possible team and can encourage them to do so, competition entry forms are available from Georgie Hope at Focus PR on tel: 020 7845 6624 or email: civr-focuspr@focuspr.co.uk. The deadline for entries is 12th midday on Wednesday 1st September 2010.

The Wines of Roussillon Dessert Trophy 2010 will be presented to the winning team at an exclusive reception, to be held at l'Atelier des Chefs, Wigmore Street, London on Monday 25th October 2010. The European Final will be held in Perpignan on 24th January 2011.

The winning chef will win a 4-day course with world champion pastry chef, Olivier Bajard, at the renowned École Internationale de Pâtisserie in Perpignan, whilst the winning sommelier will spend the four days in a guided tour to visit producers of Roussillon’s finest wines.

THE FOOD ROOM & LIBRARY, LONDON SW1

UPDATE: The new term at the FOOD ROOM & LIBRARY starts tomorrow, 28th September 2010. Cooking Basics courses will run every Tuesday, Intermediate classes on Wednesdays and Advanced and Ambitious courses every Thursday - between 11.00 and 12.00 or 14.00 and 15.00. Courses cost from £25 per person (up to a maximum of 10) - for 45 minutes of quick-step tips and tricks, a glass of wine/cup of coffee and tasting samples of the food prepared - up to £120 - for demonstrations (on Thursday afternoons between 1.00 p.m. and 3.45 p.m), which are extensive, detailed sessions for up to 6 students, including lunch with wine, coffee/tea and take-home tasting samples, plus use of The Food Library afterwards.

The Food Room & Library is the brainchild of Jane Lunzer Gifford. Trained at Leith’s, Jane has spent the past 30 years cooking and teaching about food. She has also written cookery books, done food photography and created dishes for all sorts of events. 'Maximum impact with minimum effort’ is Jane’s principle – and is the basis for the demonstrations she gives in The Food Room, a beautiful, calm, comfortable and spacious kitchen in Jane's Eccleston Square home. She gives demonstrations either on a one-to-one basis or to groups of up to ten (ranging from £25 to £120 per person) and tailors her lessons to suit her clients’ needs. She teaches how to taste, assess and 'tweak' recipes and stresses the importance of presenting food beautifully. She does not believe in sticking rigidly to a recipe, when it can be just as successful - and much more fun - to go off-piste. Jane believes that with a little coaxing and one or two guidelines, anyone can cook with confidence and panache.

Adjoining The Food Room is a wonderful library of 700 food-related books, a resource which she is happy to share. Guests at the demonstrations or Library subscribers (see below) can drop by, have a cup of coffee and enjoy the thoughts of writers such as MFK Fisher, Jane Grigson, Fergus Henderson and Nigel Slater, explore the esoteric simplicity of Japanese cookery through Shizuo Tsuji or dip into the learned scientific explanations of Harold McGee. Some of the titles in Jane’s collection date as far back as the 1700s and give a fascinating insight into how approaches to food have changed - or not - over time. The Library continues to grow – selectively – and many contemporary publications are for sale at 10% less than cover price. Orders can be placed in advance for books about to be published, and the Library offers a search service on behalf of clients for titles no longer available from the usual sources.

There is also a small selection of some of the best cookery equipment for sale – pieces that Jane considers highly useful. Cards and gift-wrapping are available too.

The Food Library annual membership fee of £200 is inclusive of drop-in use, menu planning and cookery advice, magazines to browse and refreshments. It is open Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday 8.45 am to 11.30am. After hours access is available by appointment, and questions can be emailed at any time – with a response guaranteed within 24 hours. Membership of the library gives individuals a 10% discount on demonstrations.

The Food Room & Library
80 Eccleston Square
London SW1V 1PP
020 7630 6036 / 07920 755 998
www.thefoodroomandlibrary.co.uk

Lay & Wheeler's Bordeaux 2009 Offers

Wine merchants, Lay & Wheeler, have been assiduous in sending their customers emails to let them know about the release of prices for the 2009 vintage in Bordeaux. I did not taste the wines en primeur and prices are looking on the high side, but, if you want to take a punt, below is maybe one of the wines to opt for, as indeed are many of the 'second wines' of the Grands Vins. L&W say it is "easily the best second wine of Ducru-Beaucaillou that we have ever tasted".

Visit the Lay & Wheeler website at www.laywheeler.com/Bordeaux2009 to see all their Bordeaux 2009 releases to date, or contact one of their wine consultants on 0845 330 1855 to discuss the wines and the vintage.


2009 La Croix de Beaucaillou, St-Julien £297 per 12 bottle case in bond
Very attractive and pure, perfumed, blueberry and blackcurrant nose, with creamy notes and a touch of graphite. On palate the fruit is pure and focused. The tannins are fine and accessible and the finish is fresh and of good fruit length. Gently expressed, very well balanced and likely to represent a fabulous quality to price ratio.
Drink: 2015-2023

CARBON DATING OF WINE

This is an extract from an article that appeared in Drinks Business....it looks as if the skills of MWs will soon be redundant!

"Scientists searching for a way to spot cheap wines being passed off as fine vintages have developed a method of carbon-dating wine to prevent forgery. The method involves measuring the trace amounts of carbon released into the atmosphere during atomic bomb testing in the 1960s that have been absorbed by vines and into the wine. The technique allows scientists to pinpoint exactly which year the wine was made, with the levels of carbon in the atmosphere having gradually reduced year-on-year since testing ended.

Speaking at the American Chemical Society meeting in San Francisco, Dr Graham Jones from the University of Adelaide, Australia, said that misrepresenting the vintage is a never-ending problem for collectors, with up to 5% of wines sold globally thought to be fake. He said: “The problem goes beyond ordinary consumers being overcharged for a bottle of expensive wine of a famous winery with a great year listed on the label.

The age of a wine can be accurately measured by comparing the amount of carbon-14, which was released by bomb testing in the 1940s to 1960s, to the amount of carbon-12".

WHISKY TASTING IN PERPIGNAN

We are sadly not going down to Roussillon for Easter, but for those of you who might be, Perpignan drinks retailer, La Part des Anges, is holding a whisky tasting on Friday, 2nd April from 7-9pm, at 2bis rue des Coquelicots, near the Palais des Congres, at which Julian Hutchings will be present. It costs 5 euros. For more information and to subscribe to the Cave La Part des Anges newsletter, write to: cavepartdesanges@gmail.com.

Kinloch Lodge's 'beer flights'

Michelin-starred Kinloch Lodge in Sleat on the Isle of Skye, which is owned by bestselling cookery writer Claire Macdonald, has begun to offer ‘beer flights’ to match every dish on its menu. The restaurant already offers ‘wine flights’, ‘malt whisky flights’ and ‘beer and dram chasers’.

Sixteen beers have been selected - fifteen of which are from Scotland – making this one of the most extensive bottled-beer lists of any Scottish restaurant.

Sam Smith’s raspberry beer from Yorkshire is the only English beer. The others come from Skye, Orkney, Arran, Edinburgh, the Black Isle, Alva, Alloa and Fraserburgh. Other ingredients include heather and seaweed, which were used in brewing before the arrival of hops in the 1500s.

Tom Eveling, who manages the restaurant, says the reaction to the ‘beer flights’ has been very positive.

For more information, visit: www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk.

Restaurant La Carmagnole, Perpignan

This could not be more of a contrast to the Auberge de l'Ill, but is, nevertheless, a real find, for which we thank the same friends (Mary Ann and Neil) who recommended Le Petit Comptoir in Narbonne (see below). We have now been there twice and have decided we will time our future visits to Perpignan in order to return. Tucked away from the main hustle and bustle, but still in one of the old town's characterful, narrow streets, this is a small (26 covers), unassuming restaurant which is open for lunch only (till 3pm), except on Sundays. Inside, the walls are lined with old photos and prints, but also some rather lurid mosaic tiles, but the atmosphere is warm and welcoming. The menu, scrawled on a blackboard, consists of three starters, three mains, four 'tartes salees' (quiches) and four desserts. Perfectly acceptable wines (from Dom Brial) are served in carafes. Mains, including the quiches, served with salad, are 8.50 euros, but a main plus starter or dessert is a mere 11 euros. All the food is home-cooked (except for bread and ice cream) and simply delicious - just as bistro food should be. Remarkably, it is both cooked and served by the chef/owner - with no help whatsoever - and yet the service is speedy and efficient. On our last visit, we chose tagine de porc aux pruneaux et amandes (tagine of pork with prunes and almonds), a copious plate of tasty, tender pork, infused with a rich, red wine and cinnamon sauce and served with a generous portion of cous cous and lapin sauce moutarde (rabbit in a mustard sauce) which was again a generous portion of tender meat, served with a deliciously piquant sauce and a mash of potato and carrot. For pudding, we chose a tarte a la rhubarbe (rhubarb tart) and tarte aux amandes et au chocolat (almond and chocolate tart). I usually avoid pastry in restaurants, but had spotted that a neighbour's tarte salee looked as if it had a nice, thin crust, so took the plunge. The pastry was not only thin, but crisp and flavoursome. The rhubarb, set in a clafoutis-like filling, was nicely tart. The chocolate in the other tart was good quality and not too sweet and the pastry just as crisp and tasty.

With Ryanair reinstating its flights to Perpignan from Stansted in late March and flights there from other cities with FlyBe (times vary), this beautiful city makes a perfect, reasonably-priced destination for a long weekend.

La Carmagnole, 12 rue de la Revolution Francaise, 66000 Perpignan, tel: +33 4 68 35 44 46.

Alsace is Top Destination

I have always loved Alsace and was delighted to see that it had been just singled out by Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel 2010 as one of the top 10 regions in the world to visit.

Lonely Planet describes Alsace as a “mountainous, vine-ribboned region” and claims a “defining experience” would be “cycling among vineyards and wine cellars along the rural Route du Vin d’Alsace (Alsace Wine Route) one day and overdosing on city culture the next.” I am not sure I'd recommend cycling and wine tasting as a combined activity, but there is certainly a plethora (46) of well-signed wine trails in the vineyards, which are well worth following.

Apart from the appeal of its much-underrated wines, Alsace has, owing to the Vosges mountains, an enviably balmy and dry microclimate. It also has a surfeit of excellent restaurants, amongst which the Auberge de l'Ill at Illhaeusern - photo above - (www.auberge-de-l-ill.com) would certainly rank in my Top 10 eateries in the world.

YALI WINEMAKER'S SELECTION WETLAND SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009

Vina Ventisquero's Yali Winemaker's Selection Wetland Sauvignon 2009 is currently on special offer at Majestic (buy 2 or more for £4.49) until 1st February and then at Tesco (down from £6.49 to £4.49 from 2nd-23rd February). It is not as aromatic or gooseberry-laden as its more expensive New Zealand counterparts; it is, nevertheless, fresh and fruity with decent acidity and added depth from lees ageing. It is a bargain at this reduced price. The Yali range is named after the El Yali Wetland Zone, an important wetland ecosystem in central Chile, close to the Vina Ventisquero winery. The wines come in one of the new, lightweight bottles. Carbon emissions from its transportation, although reduced owing to this bottle, are being offset by a programme with ClimateCare. The winery has also joined forces with the Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust. A donation is made to the Trust for every case of Yali wine sold in the UK.

VINTAGE ROOTS SPECIAL OFFER

To celebrate their move exactly a year ago - to a farm in Heckfield, near Hook - Vintage Roots, one of the best organic wine specialists, are offering FREE DELIVERY to customers until NEXT TUESDAY 26TH JANUARY on all orders of a dozen or more bottles. They have also frozen all their prices at pre-VAT increase levels.

 If you need more information, call Vintage Roots free on 0800 980 4992, or email info@vintageroots.co.uk. Otherwise, just order from the website: www.vintageroots.co.uk and enter the code VRFD26 on the checkout page.

GLENGOYNE AND MONACHYLE MHOR BREAKS

Two well-known, family-owned Scottish names, Glengoyne Distillery and the Monachyle Mhor hotel, have got together to offer two culinary breaks, perfect for food and whisky lovers. The packages on offer are a one-night Whisky Food and Mhor break from £280 per couple or a two-night Master Class with fine food and rare whisky - including The Glengoyne 40 year old, at over £200 per dram - from £684 per couple. The Master Class breaks include two nights dinner, bed and breakfast at Monachyle Mhor , a welcome dram of Glengoyne 21 Years Old, served with a traditional Scottish delicacy, a seasonal cooking demonstration and lunch at the Mhor Fish cafe in Callander, a Master Blender Session at Glengoyne, considered one of Scotland’s most beautiful distilleries, a tour of the Trossachs with a ‘mobile tutored whisky nosing session’ and an evening meal at Monachyle Mhor pairing the best local ingredients with Glengoyne whiskies and Glen Guin wines.

The two-night Master Classes take place four times per year on 6 March, 16 June, 8 September and 10 November. 
The one-night Whisky, Food and Mhor break is available all year.

Both Glengoyne and Mhor are set in the spectacular scenery of the Trossachs, within easy reach of Glasgow and Edinburgh.

For further information or to book please visit: www.glengoyne.com or www.mhor.net.

YAPP BROTHERS CASE OFFERS & SALE

Yapp Brothers have just announced a new range of mixed case offers for the New Year. Their 'Rhône Rush' sale also continues throughout January (or until stocks last) in which they are offering a 22.5% discount on unsplit cases (of 12 bottles) on selected Rhône and Rhône-related wines. These include Jasmin Cote Rotie and Clape Cornas. Despite the VAT increase, their 2009 prices will remain unchanged until their 2010 list comes out at the end of February.

LE PETIT COMPTOIR, NARBONNE

Some friends suggested we meet for Sunday lunch last week at this restaurant in Narbonne, run by Camille and Patrick Pastoret. We were on our way back to Roussillon from a stay at fellow MW, Rosemary George's house near Beziers (have a look at her excellent Blogspot blog - Taste Languedoc). The exterior of Le Petit Comptoir is unassuming, even off-putting. Inside was an empty bar area with a promising, well-stocked effort at a wine bar to one side. We were led down a corridor to the back of the building, with windows giving onto the road behind, where we found a small, crowded restaurant with Art Nouveau style lights, mirrors and panelling. The set menu offered two options for 26 euros: the chef's choice of small starter, with your choice of main course and dessert or your choice of starter and main plus the chef"s choice of small dessert. We all plumped for the latter. A generous amuse-bouche of creamed lentils with mushrooms and a hint of truffle was delicious and well-seasoned. I then opted for Coquilles Saint-Jacques with a cress sauce. The scallops were cooked to perfection and the sauce was just tart enough. Several of us then chose magret d'oie (goose breast) which was cooked pink, as requested, succulent and tasty. Under it were delicious Catalan-style braised leeks. We drank Pinot Noir Camas 2008 from Anne de Joyeuse, which cut through the richness of the goose well. The pudding was announced as 'glace" (ice cream) but turned out to be a slice of creamy, not-too-sweet, caramel bavarois. Petits fours then appeared with our excellent coffee and tisanes. The service was attentive but discreet. There are other cheaper options on the menu, but we all still felt we had had good value for money and will definitely be going back. Le Petit Comptoir, 4 Bd Marechal Joffre, 11100 Narbonne (tel: +33 4 68 42 30 35/68 41 52 71, web: www.petitcomptoir.com).

TORRES' LOW ALCOHOL 'NATUREO'

Just in time for the New Year resolutions, Torres has launched a de-alcoholised wine, which they claim to be "low on alchohol but not on flavour". I tasted it with more than a dose scepticism, remembering that all the competition, if one can call it that, had been consigned rather rapidly to the kitchen sink. Natureo has 0.5% alcohol, so legally it cannot be called wine and it certainly does not taste like wine either, but it is not altogether unpleasant. The nose is grapey, with notes of pineapple, of the tinned variety. The palate is akin to a cheap Moscato d'Asti, but the sweetness is not overwhelming. It has some decent acidity too and a surprisingly long, if slightly artificial finish. At 15-20 calories a glass, as opposed to around 90 for a glass of wine, it could certainly help anyone on a diet who hates to give up their daily tipple. And it certainly is the best of its kind on the market.

So how does Torres make it? Firstly, Moscatel grapes are turned into wine in the normal way, with a cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks to retain aroma and freshness. Then most of the alcohol is separated out and extracted, using a technique known as "rotating cone column". This technique retains the aromas and anti-oxidants of the original wine.

Natureo 2008 is currently available from Soho Wine Suppliers (tel: 020 7636 8490, web: www.sohowine.co.uk) at £5.99 a bottle.

VILLA PONCIAGO FOR FELLS

Fells have been appointed sole UK agents for Villa Ponciago. The 48 ha Cru Beaujolais domaine - formerly Chateau de Poncie - is now owned by the Henriot family, who aim to produce "the very finest Fleurie". The first wine will be released in April. Let's hope that the Henriots manage to do something to improve the lacklustre image of the Beaujolais Crus. They are already giving support to a long-term project that aims to map out the terroir of the 10 Beaujolais Crus with a view to creating a superior Premier Cru within the next decade.

LAY & WHEELER JANUARY SALE

I have just received details of the Lay & Wheeler January sale. As well as a good selection of wines from Bordeaux & Burgundy, there are some interesting offerings from Alsace eg half bottles of older Pinot Gris from the renowned Albert Mann. The Chardonnays from Clayvin Vineyards are worth considering too.
For more information, visit: www.laywheeler.com.