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Wine Merchant Profile: Peter Green, Edinburgh

Winemaker Profile: Gerard Gauby

The Saint-Bacchus Wine Competition

Sunday 10 January 2010

TORRES' LOW ALCOHOL 'NATUREO'


Just in time for the New Year resolutions, Torres has launched a de-alcoholised wine, which they claim to be "low on alchohol but not on flavour". I tasted it with more than a dose scepticism, remembering that all the competition, if one can call it that, had been consigned rather rapidly to the kitchen sink. Natureo has 0.5% alcohol, so legally it cannot be called wine and it certainly does not taste like wine either, but it is not altogether unpleasant. The nose is grapey, with notes of pineapple, of the tinned variety. The palate is akin to a cheap Moscato d'Asti, but the sweetness is not overwhelming. It has some decent acidity too and a surprisingly long, if slightly artificial finish. At 15-20 calories a glass, as opposed to around 90 for a glass of wine, it could certainly help anyone on a diet who hates to give up their daily tipple. And it certainly is the best of its kind on the market.

So how does Torres make it? Firstly, Moscatel grapes are turned into wine in the normal way, with a cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks to retain aroma and freshness. Then most of the alcohol is separated out and extracted, using a technique known as "rotating cone column". This technique retains the aromas and anti-oxidants of the original wine.

Natureo 2008 is currently available from Soho Wine Suppliers (tel: 020 7636 8490, web: www.sohowine.co.uk) at £5.99 a bottle.

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